Baby Chicks: A Complete First-Week Care Guide

baby chicks gathered in a striped fabric-lined woven basket.” loading=”lazy” />

Quick Answer: How to Care for Baby Chicks

– Keep them warm: Baby chicks need 95°F the first week, dropping 5°F each week after that.

– Feed chick starter: Use an unmedicated or medicated chick starter crumble from day one.

– Fresh

Waterers for Baby Chicks

water always: Use a shallow chick waterer — deep water is a drowning risk.

– Watch for pasty butt: A clogged vent (pasty butt) is the #1 beginner emergency — check daily.

– No outdoor time yet: Chicks shouldn’t go outside until they’re fully feathered, around 6 weeks old.

There’s nothing quite like bringing home a box of baby chicks for the first time.

You’ve done the research, you’ve set up your

Setting Up the Brooder

brooder, and you’re pretty sure you’re ready. Then the box starts peeping and suddenly you’re Googling “how to care for baby chicks” at 11pm wondering if the

Temperature Requirements

temperature is right or if that one chick in the corner is normal or not.

You’re not alone. Every backyard chicken keeper has been there.

The good news: baby chick care isn’t complicated — but it is specific. Get a few key things right in that first week and your chicks will thrive. Miss them, and you’ll be dealing with avoidable problems fast.

This guide covers everything you need to know from day one: what to set up before they arrive, what to

Feeding Baby Chicks

feed them, how to read their behavior, and what a

First Week Health Checks

healthy chick actually looks like. No fluff, just what works.

What You Need Before the Chicks Arrive

Do yourself a big favor: have everything set up before you pick up your chicks. They’ll need heat, food, and water the moment they arrive — no time to run to the feed store.

The Brooder

A brooder is just a warm, safe enclosure where your chicks will live for the first 4–6 weeks. It doesn’t have to be fancy.

Common options:

– Large plastic tote (100+ quart) — cheap, easy to clean, works great for small flocks

– Stock tank — sturdy, widely available at farm supply stores

– Wooden brooder box — DIY or purchased, ideal if you’re raising more than 6 chicks

Line the bottom with paper towels for the first few days, then switch to pine shavings. Avoid cedar shavings — the aromatic oils can irritate their lungs. Plan for at least ½ sq ft per chick for the first two weeks.

Heat Source

Baby chicks can’t regulate their body temperature and will die quickly if they get too cold. You have two main options:

Heat lamp — A 250-watt red bulb clamped above the brooder. Traditional but a fire hazard if not secured properly. Always use a lamp guard.

Radiant heat plate — The safer, modern option. Mimics a mother hen. Chicks huddle underneath and move away when comfortable. Far less fire risk. Strongly recommended for beginners.

…Chick Starter Feed

Chick starter crumble comes in two types:

– Medicated — Contains Amprolium, which helps prevent coccidiosis. Good choice if your chicks weren’t vaccinated.

– Unmedicated — Fine if your chicks were vaccinated for Marek’s disease.

Either works. Check with your hatchery or feed store for regional guidance.

Waterer

Use a proper chick waterer, not a bowl. Chicks will drown in open water. A 1-quart mason jar waterer is perfect for small flocks. Place it on a small platform to keep shavings out. Clean it daily.

The Right Temperature for Baby Chicks

Temperature is the thing that trips up most new chick owners. Too cold — they pile up and can suffocate. Too hot — they pant and spread to the edges. Get it right and they eat, explore, and sleep happily.

Baby Chick Temperature Chart by Week

– Week 1: 95°F (35°C)

– Week 2: 90°F (32°C)

– Week 3: 85°F (29°C)

– Week 4: 80°F (27°C)

– Week 5: 75°F (24°C)

– Week 6: 70°F (21°C) — ready to go outside if weather permits

Drop temperature by 5°F each week until you reach ambient outdoor temperature.

Read Your Chicks, Not Just Your Thermometer

– Huddled under the heat source, peeping loudly → Too cold

– Spread to the edges, panting → Too hot (1/3)

– Moving freely, eating, drinking, some sleeping near heat → Just right

Place your heat source on one side of the brooder only — this creates a temperature gradient so chicks can self-regulate. A cheap digital thermometer on the brooder floor removes all guesswork.

What to Feed Baby Chicks

Chick starter crumble is all they need for the first 6–8 weeks. It’s nutritionally complete — don’t supplement with kitchen scraps yet. Their digestive systems aren’t ready.

Feeding Tips

– Keep feed available at all times (free-choice feeding)

– Use a slotted chick feeder to reduce waste

– Keep it dry — damp or moldy feed causes illness fast

What About Treats and Grit?

Wait until week 2–3 before offering any treats. A pinch of scrambled egg or a few pieces of chopped greens is plenty.

Important: If you offer anything other than starter crumble, you must also provide chick grit — tiny stones that help them grind food in their gizzard. Without grit, they can’t digest it. Sprinkle it in a small separate dish — don’t mix it into the feed….

Water Setup and Pasty Butt

Water is critical from minute one. When you first bring chicks home, gently dip each beak into the water before releasing them. This simple trick gets them started immediately and can prevent early losses.

Waterer Setup Tips

– Use lukewarm water the first day — cold water can shock newly arrived chicks

– Add 1 teaspoon of plain white sugar per quart for the first 24–48 hours if chicks were shipped (quick energy boost)

– Clean daily — warm water plus droppings breeds bacteria fast

– Elevate the waterer slightly to keep shavings out

What Is Pasty Butt and Why Does It Matter?

Pasty butt (pasting up) is when dried droppings seal over a chick’s vent. If left untreated, it’s fatal within 24–48 hours. Most common in the first week, especially with shipped chicks.

How to check: Lift each chick and look at the vent area daily. It should be clean and open.

How to treat it: Wet a paper towel or cotton ball with warm water and gently soften the paste until it comes off. Never pull it off dry — you can injure the chick. Apply a tiny dab of coconut oil or olive oil after to help prevent sticking.

Check every chick, every day for the first 10 days. Takes under two minutes once you’re used to it.

Signs of a Healthy vs. Sick Chick

Signs of a Healthy Chick

– Active and curious — pecking, scratching, exploring

– Eating and drinking regularly

– Peeping softly (not constantly or shrilly)

– Eyes bright and fully open

– Fluffy feathers, standing upright

– Sleeping in groups (not piled up in distress)

Signs of a Sick or Struggling Chick

– Consistently separated from the group

– Eyes partially or fully closed when others are active

– Labored breathing, gasping, or clicking sounds

– Drooping wings, ruffled feathers

– Pasty butt left untreated

– Not eating or drinking after 24 hours

– Constant loud, distressed peeping

Isolate a sick chick immediately in a warm container. Keep it hydrated with electrolyte water. If symptoms don’t improve quickly, contact a vet with poultry experience. Don’t wait — chicks go downhill fast.

When Can Baby Chicks Go Outside?

Chicks need to be fully feathered before spending time outside unsupervised. Down doesn’t protect them from cold or rain the way feathers do.

General Outdoor Timeline

– Weeks 1–3: Inside only. No exceptions.

– Weeks 3–5: Short supervised outdoor time on warm days (above 65°F, no wind, no rain).

– Week 6+: Can transition to the coop if nighttime temps stay above 50°F and they’re fully feathered.

There’s no rush. A too-early outdoor move is one of the most common causes of chick loss.

Also remember: predators are a real threat even in suburban backyards. Hawks, raccoons, cats, and rats will go after chicks. Never leave young chicks outside unattended without a secure, covered run.

Week 1: Mostly fluffy down, sleeping a lot, learning to eat and drink. Completely dependent on heat source.

Week 2: Wing feathers start coming in. More active and curious. They’ll try to jump.

Week 3: “The Awkward Stage” — half fluff, half feathers. They look scraggly. Totally normal.

Week 4: Body feathers coming in fast. You can drop the brooder temp more noticeably.

Week 5: Looking like miniature chickens. Roosters may start showing comb differences.

Week 6: Mostly feathered. Ready to consider outdoor transition depending on weather.

Weeks 8–12: Pullets and cockerels become identifiable by comb size, tail feathers, and behavior.

Enjoy this stage — it goes fast.

Gear and Product Recommendations

Radiant heat plate (e.g. Brinsea EcoGlow or Rent-A-Coop) — Far safer than heat lamps. Strongly recommended for beginners. (Amazon link coming soon)

Chick starter feed — Purina Chick Start & Grow (medicated) or Scratch and Peck (unmedicated organic). (Amazon / Chewy link coming soon)

1-quart chick waterer — Simple, cheap, easy to clean. Buy two. (Amazon link coming soon)

Chick feeder — Slotted feeder reduces waste significantly. (Amazon link coming soon)

Pine shavings (large flake) — Best brooder bedding. Avoid cedar. (Amazon / Chewy link coming soon)

Digital thermometer — Clip it to the brooder floor so you always know the temp. (Amazon link coming soon)

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do baby chicks need a heat lamp?

Most chicks need supplemental heat for 4–6 weeks. Drop temperature by 5°F per week. Once they’re fully feathered and the brooder temperature matches the outdoor nighttime temperature, they’re ready to transition outside.

Can baby chicks eat regular chicken feed?

No. Baby chicks need chick starter crumble — it has higher protein (18–20%) and smaller particle size for their developing digestive systems. Regular layer feed has calcium levels that can damage young kidneys. Stick to chick starter until 16–18 weeks old.

Why is my chick chirping so loudly?

Loud, persistent chirping usually means something is off — most commonly too cold, too hot, hungry, thirsty, or lonely. Check temperature first. Then food and water. If one chick is isolated from others, return it to the flock — chicks are social and get stressed alone.

How many chicks should I start with?

For beginners, 4–6 chicks is the sweet spot. It’s enough for a healthy social flock without overwhelming you. Check your local ordinances first — many suburban cities limit flock size or ban roosters.

The Bottom Line

Baby chick care isn’t hard — but it’s unforgiving in the first two weeks. Get the heat right. Keep fresh water available. Check for pasty butt daily. Watch their behavior.

Those four things will carry you through the toughest part. After week two, you’ll start to relax. You’ll recognize healthy behavior, you’ll know your chicks individually, and you’ll wonder why you were ever nervous.

Related Articles

– Backyard Chickens for Beginners

– Picking the Right Chicken Breed for Your Backyard

– What to Feed Backyard Chickens

This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.