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Related reading: how to build a chicken coop | best coop bedding options
Getting your nesting boxes right is one of the most important decisions you’ll make for your laying flock. Hens need dark, private, comfortably-sized boxes to lay reliably and consistently. Too few boxes causes fighting and stress. Wrong positioning means hens sleep in them and soil the bedding. This guide covers everything you need to know about chicken nesting boxes — how many, what size, where to mount them, and how to set them up for maximum egg production.
How Many Nesting Boxes Do You Need?
The rule of thumb is one nesting box for every 3–4 hens. Hens tend to prefer the same box (often squabbling over one even when multiple are available), so providing adequate options reduces stress. For a typical backyard flock:
- 2–4 hens: 2 nesting boxes
- 4–8 hens: 2–3 nesting boxes
- 8–12 hens: 3–4 nesting boxes
- 12–20 hens: 4–6 nesting boxes
More boxes are never a problem — hens simply won’t use the extras. Too few leads to hens waiting in line, laying on the floor, or stressing the flock.
What Size Should Nesting Boxes Be?
Standard nesting box dimensions: 12 inches wide × 12 inches deep × 12 inches tall. This size works for most standard-sized hens including Leghorns, Plymouth Rocks, Rhode Island Reds, and similar breeds. For larger breeds like Jersey Giants or Brahmas, go 14×14 or even 16×16 inches. For bantam breeds, 10×10 inches is sufficient.
The box should be large enough for a hen to turn around comfortably, but not so large that two hens can easily cram in together (which leads to broken eggs). A slightly smaller box actually encourages hens to use it — they instinctively prefer an enclosed, secure space for laying.
Where to Mount Nesting Boxes
Mount nesting boxes 18–24 inches off the floor. This height keeps them accessible, discourages floor laying, and makes egg collection comfortable. The critical rule: nesting boxes must be positioned lower than the roosts. Chickens instinctively roost at the highest point available. If the boxes are higher than the roosts, hens will sleep in them — soiling the bedding and eggs.
Position boxes in a dark or shaded area of the coop if possible. Hens prefer dark, private spaces for laying — a box that gets direct afternoon sun will be avoided in favor of darker alternatives.
How to Stop Hens from Sleeping in Nest Boxes
If hens are sleeping in the nesting boxes (soiling them overnight), try these solutions:
- Raise the roost bars above box height: The most effective fix — hens will prefer the highest roost
- Block boxes at night: Close box access from dusk to dawn using a board or curtain until hens learn to use the roost
- Add more roost space: If the roost is overcrowded, hens may retreat to the boxes
- Install curtains on the boxes: Dark curtains (fabric strips) over box openings make them more attractive for laying and less attractive for sleeping
Best Nesting Box Bedding
Keep nesting boxes filled with clean, fresh material to cushion eggs and encourage use. Top choices:
- Pine shavings: Most popular, highly absorbent, easy to replace
- Straw: Traditional, hens enjoy rearranging it, good nest-building material
- Nesting box pads: Pre-formed foam or plastic pads that fit neatly in the box, protect eggs, and are easy to wash and reuse
Chicken nesting box pads on Amazon — keeps eggs cleaner and reduces bedding scatter
Nest Box Troubleshooting
Hens Laying on the Floor
Possible causes: not enough boxes, boxes positioned too high or too bright, new pullets not familiar with boxes yet, or boxes smell of droppings and need cleaning. Solution: ensure 1 box per 3–4 hens, clean boxes thoroughly, make boxes darker with curtains, and position a hen in the box briefly to show her the location.
Hens Eating Eggs
Egg-eating usually starts when an egg is accidentally broken and a hen discovers it’s edible. Prevention: collect eggs frequently (at least twice daily), add extra padding to cushion landing, use roll-out nesting boxes where eggs roll to a separate collection tray away from the hen’s reach.
Chickens Fighting Over One Box
This is normal behavior — hens form preferences and often want the same box. The main solutions are providing more boxes (even if underused) and adding curtains to make all boxes equally dark and appealing. You can also temporarily block the most popular box to break the preference cycle.
Nesting Box Designs
Individual Wood Box
The most common DIY design — simple wooden cubbies built into the wall or mounted on the outside of the coop with an egg door. Easy to build with basic lumber and a few screws. Include a 4-inch front lip to hold bedding in.
External Nest Box with Egg Access Door
Mounting nest boxes on the exterior of the coop wall with a hinged lid for egg collection is a popular upgrade. You can collect eggs without entering the coop at all. This also adds floor space inside the coop.
Roll-Out Nest Box
A roll-out design has a slightly sloped floor so eggs roll away from the hen into a covered collection tray. Expensive but excellent for preventing egg-eating and keeping eggs extremely clean. Best for keepers who can’t collect eggs multiple times daily.
Roll-out nesting boxes on Amazon
Products for Better Nesting Boxes
- Ready-made nesting boxes — easy installation, various sizes
- Nesting box herbs — lavender and mint in the box deters mites and encourages laying
- Pine shavings — best nest box bedding material
Frequently Asked Questions
When do pullets start using nesting boxes?
Pullets typically start using nesting boxes at 18–22 weeks of age, just before they begin laying. You can encourage early use by placing a fake egg or golf ball in the box — hens see this as a signal that the spot is safe and approved for laying.
Should nesting boxes be dark?
Yes — hens strongly prefer dark, enclosed spaces for laying. If your boxes are too bright, add curtains (fabric strips hung over the opening) or reposition boxes away from direct sunlight. Darker boxes reduce the risk of hens laying on the floor in darker corners of the coop instead.
How often should I clean nesting boxes?
Replace soiled or damp nest box bedding immediately — dirty boxes lead to dirty eggs. Ideally spot-check boxes daily when collecting eggs and do a full bedding replacement weekly or whenever the boxes look or smell soiled. If a hen has been broody in the box, always do a full clean after she stops setting.
Can I use golf balls as fake eggs?
Yes, golf balls are one of the most popular training tools for encouraging pullets to use nesting boxes. The bright white color and round shape mimic eggs. Wooden eggs, ceramic eggs, and plastic eggs all work the same way. Leave 1–2 in each box when pullets are approaching laying age.
How high should nesting boxes be off the floor?
Mount nesting boxes 18–24 inches off the floor for standard-sized hens. This height provides easy access via a simple ramp or ledge while keeping boxes elevated enough to feel private. Always ensure nesting box tops are lower than the lowest roost bar, so hens prefer roosting over sleeping in the boxes.
Related Guides
For the complete coop setup, see our guides on chicken roosts, coop bedding, and building a chicken coop from scratch.
Training Hens to Use Nesting Boxes
Young pullets approaching laying age (around 18-22 weeks) sometimes need guidance to use nesting boxes. The most effective method:
- Place a ceramic, wooden, or plastic fake egg in each nesting box. Hens are drawn to lay where they see another egg already present. It is a powerful instinctive trigger.
- Make sure the boxes are in the darkest part of the coop. If they are too bright or exposed, hens will seek darker spots on the floor instead.
- Block access to floor areas where you do not want hens laying — move feeders and waterers to reduce appealing floor spots.
- If you catch a hen trying to lay on the floor, gently pick her up and place her in a nesting box. Do this consistently and she will learn.
Leave the fake eggs in the boxes for the first 4-6 weeks after your hens start laying. Once the habit is established, you can remove them (or leave them — they do no harm).
Broody Hens and Nesting Boxes
A broody hen is one that has decided to sit on eggs to hatch them. She will claim a nesting box and refuse to leave it, blocking other hens from using it and sometimes becoming aggressive when disturbed.
If you are not hatching eggs, break the broodiness by:
- Removing her from the nest box every time you find her in it
- Placing her in a wire-bottomed cage with food and water for 3-7 days (the airflow cools her underside, which breaks the hormonal cycle)
- Collecting eggs frequently so she never has a clutch to sit on
Rollaway nesting boxes largely eliminate the broody problem because eggs roll away immediately after laying and there is nothing for the hen to sit on.