Feeding chickens correctly is simpler than it seems once you understand the basic framework: the right feed for the right life stage, constant access to fresh clean water, free-choice grit and calcium for laying hens, and treats in strict moderation. This complete guide covers every aspect of chicken nutrition — from chick starter to layer pellets to supplements — so you can build a feeding program that keeps your flock healthy, productive, and thriving year-round.
Quick Facts
| Layer Feed Protein | 16–18% protein |
| Grower Feed Protein | 18–20% protein |
| Chick Starter | 20–22% protein |
| Daily Amount | ~1/4 lb (115g) per standard hen |
| Grit | Insoluble — required for grinding food in gizzard |
| Oyster Shell | Free-choice calcium supplement for laying hens only |
Understanding Chicken Feed Types
Commercial chicken feeds are formulated for specific life stages because nutritional requirements change dramatically as birds grow and as hens begin and continue laying. Chick starter (20–22% protein) fuels the explosive growth of the first 8 weeks. Grower or pullet developer (16–18% protein) bridges the gap from 8 weeks to point of lay. Layer feed (16–18% protein, with elevated calcium at 3–4%) supports egg production and shell quality in laying hens.
The most common mistake is keeping birds on the wrong feed for their life stage. Feeding layer feed with its high calcium content to chicks or non-laying birds stresses their kidneys and can cause lasting damage. Feeding chick starter to laying hens provides insufficient calcium for shell formation. Match the feed to the bird’s current stage, and transition gradually (over 1 week) when switching between types.
Protein: The Most Important Nutrient
Protein — specifically the amino acids methionine, lysine, and cystine — drives feather production, egg formation, immune function, and growth. The minimum protein recommendation for laying hens is 16%, but research consistently shows improved production, feather quality, and health outcomes at 18% or slightly above, especially during molt and in cold weather when energy demands increase.
High-protein treats are among the best supplements you can offer: black oil sunflower seeds (BOSS) at 16% protein and rich in healthy fats, dried mealworms at 50%+ protein, cooked eggs (ironic but excellent), plain cooked meat, and plain yogurt. These are especially valuable during molt when the body is producing feathers (85% protein by composition) while simultaneously maintaining egg production.
Grit and Oyster Shell: The Essential Supplements
Grit and oyster shell are not optional — they are essential parts of the chicken diet that commercial feed cannot replace. Insoluble grit (granite or flint grit, sized appropriately for the bird’s age) is stored in the gizzard and used to grind food during digestion. Chickens without access to grit cannot properly break down whole grains, seeds, or fibrous plant material. Birds that free range usually find enough grit naturally; confined birds must have it provided.
Oyster shell is the calcium supplement for laying hens — crushed oyster shell provides the calcium needed for eggshell formation beyond what layer feed alone supplies. Always provide it free-choice in a separate container, never mixed into the main feed. This is critical: roosters, chicks, and non-laying hens should not eat excess calcium. Mixing it into feed forces all birds to consume it; offering it separately lets laying hens self-regulate.
Water: The Most Critical Nutrient of All
Water is more important than any feed choice — chickens can survive days without food but begin declining within hours without water. A laying hen drinks approximately 0.5–1 liter of water per day, more in hot weather (up to 2 liters in extreme heat). Egg production contains about 65% water; a dehydrated hen stops laying quickly. Clean, fresh, cool water must be available at all times.
Change waterers daily — don’t just top up, dump and refill. Biofilm builds rapidly in waterers and is a significant source of pathogen exposure. Apple cider vinegar (1 tsp per quart of water, a few times per week) acidifies the water slightly, reducing biofilm and providing minor digestive benefits. In freezing temperatures, heated waterers prevent ice formation and are one of the most important cold-weather investments a keeper can make.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much feed do chickens eat per day?
A standard laying hen eats approximately 1/4 pound (115 grams) of feed per day. Bantams eat less (about 2 oz); large breeds like Brahmas eat more. In cold weather, consumption increases as birds burn more calories maintaining body temperature. In hot weather, appetite decreases.
Should I feed chickens layer pellets or crumbles?
Both are nutritionally equivalent — the difference is physical form only. Pellets have less waste (harder to scatter), while crumbles are easier for smaller or younger birds. Many keepers switch to pellets once pullets are fully grown to reduce feed waste. Mash (ground fine) is a third option that some keepers use for sick birds or very young chicks.
Can chickens eat scratch grains as their main feed?
No — scratch grain (typically cracked corn, wheat, and milo) is a low-protein treat, not a complete feed. Feeding scratch as the primary diet causes protein deficiency, poor feather quality, reduced egg production, and obesity. Feed scratch as a treat only — no more than 10% of the daily diet.
Do chickens need supplements beyond commercial feed?
A quality complete commercial feed covers all basic nutritional needs. The essential additions are: free-choice grit (for birds without outdoor access), free-choice oyster shell (for laying hens), and clean fresh water. Beyond that, supplements are optional — probiotics, vitamins, and high-protein treats are beneficial but not required for a healthy flock on good commercial feed.
When should I switch from grower to layer feed?
Switch to layer feed when your pullets reach approximately 18 weeks of age or when you see the first egg, whichever comes first. Transition gradually over 1 week by mixing increasing proportions of layer feed into the grower feed to avoid digestive upset from a sudden diet change.
From Our Community
Real questions from backyard chicken keepers:
Q: How do I know if I’m feeding my chickens the right amount?
A: A healthy hen eats about 1/4 pound of feed per day. If feeders are empty by afternoon, offer more. If feed sits uneaten for days, you may be overfeeding treats that displace the balanced feed.
Q: Can I mix my own chicken feed?
A: You can, but balancing protein, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals correctly is complex. Most backyard keepers are better served by a quality commercial complete feed with kitchen scraps and garden extras as supplements.
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