Everything You Need to Know Before You Buy Your First Chick
raising-chickens.org
So you're thinking about getting chickens. Maybe you've seen a neighbor's flock scratching around the yard, or you've been dreaming about gathering fresh eggs on a Saturday morning. Whatever brought you here, you're in the right place.
This guide was written for absolute beginners — people who love the idea of backyard chickens but aren't sure where to start. We'll walk through everything together, from figuring out if chickens are right for your lifestyle to setting up your coop and surviving that nerve-wracking first week with baby chicks.
No fluff, no overwhelm. Just real, practical advice from people who've been there.
1. Is Backyard Chicken Keeping Right for You?
2. Local Laws & Zoning: What You Need to Know First
3. Choosing Your First Breeds
4. Setting Up Your Coop
5. Getting Your Chicks
6. First Week Care
7. Building a Daily Routine
8. Common Beginner Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)
9. Conclusion
10. Recommended Products Appendix
Let's start with a reality check — not to scare you off, but because setting realistic expectations is the difference between loving your flock and regretting the whole thing.
Chickens are wonderful animals. They're entertaining, surprisingly personable, and yes, they give you eggs. But they're also a daily commitment, and they come with their own set of challenges.
Here's what chicken keeping actually looks like day-to-day:
That morning and evening routine is non-negotiable. Chickens need to be let out at dawn and secured at dusk, every single day — including holidays, bad weather days, and days when you're not feeling your best.
Fresh eggs are the obvious reward. A small flock of 3–4 laying hens can produce 10–20 eggs per week during peak season. That's real food value, and eggs from pasture-raised backyard hens genuinely taste better than store-bought.
Beyond eggs, chickens offer:
Backyard chickens aren't free. Here's a rough breakdown of what you can expect:
Startup costs:Some people calculate a "cost per egg" and find backyard eggs are pricier than store-bought. That's true if you're purely crunching numbers. But most chicken keepers will tell you that's not really the point — the experience, the connection, and the quality are worth it.
Before you commit, sit with these questions:
1. Can I commit to twice-daily coop checks? If you travel frequently, you'll need a reliable chicken-sitter.
2. Does my yard have space for a coop and a small run? More on exact sizing in Chapter 4.
3. Am I prepared for a sick or injured bird? This happens, and it can be emotionally hard.
4. Will my household be on board? Chickens affect the whole family — the smell, the noise, the occasional mess.
5. What will I do with hens that stop laying? They can live 5–10 years, but lay well for only 2–3. Have a plan.
If you've thought through all of these and you're still excited — great. Let's keep going.
Here's the most common mistake new chicken keepers make: they buy the birds, build the coop, fall in love with their flock — and then discover it's illegal where they live.
Don't skip this step. Check your local rules before you spend a single dollar on chickens.
Your city or county's municipal code governs backyard chickens. Here's how to find what applies to you:
Start online:Regulations vary enormously by location. Here's what typically comes up:
Number of birds: Many cities allow 3–6 hens. Some allow more, some allow fewer. Always know your limit. Roosters: Most urban and suburban areas ban roosters entirely. The noise is the obvious reason. Plan to keep hens only. Setback requirements: Your coop may need to be a certain distance from your property line, your home, or your neighbor's home. Common setbacks are 10–50 feet. Coop permits: Some cities require a permit to build or install a chicken coop, especially if it's over a certain size. Slaughter restrictions: Many ordinances prohibit slaughtering poultry at home, even your own birds.Don't give up immediately. Many cities have changed their ordinances in recent years due to the urban farming movement. You may be able to:
You might be surprised. Even some cities with no formal ordinance are effectively permissive by default — if there's no rule against it, it may be allowed. But always verify before acting.
If you live in a neighborhood governed by a Homeowners Association, their rules may be stricter than local law — and they can enforce them even if the city allows chickens. Check your HOA covenants and restrictions carefully. Getting written confirmation is worth the effort.
Not all chickens are the same. Different breeds have very different personalities, egg-laying rates, cold hardiness, and temperaments. Choosing the right breed for your situation makes everything easier.
For beginners, the golden rule is: choose breeds known for being docile, productive, and hardy. Leave the exotic and high-maintenance breeds for later, once you've got the basics down.
Here are the breeds most commonly recommended for first-time chicken keepers:
For most beginners, 3–4 hens is the sweet spot. Here's why:
One caveat: order or buy a few more than you think you need. Some chicks don't survive, and you may accidentally end up with a rooster or two (especially with straight-run orders).
For most beginners, starting with day-old chicks from a reputable hatchery is the most rewarding (and most educational) path.
Your coop is the foundation of your chicken-keeping success. A good coop keeps your birds safe, comfortable, and healthy. A bad coop leads to predator losses, respiratory illness from poor ventilation, and chickens that don't lay.
Spend time getting this right before your birds arrive.
Here are the minimum space guidelines most experts recommend:
Inside the coop:Don't let pre-built coops fool you. Many are marketed for more birds than they can comfortably house. A coop labeled "for 8 chickens" often comfortably fits 3–4.
Every good coop needs these elements:
1. VentilationFresh air is critical. Ammonia from chicken droppings and moisture from breathing can cause serious respiratory disease if not ventilated out. Your coop should have ventilation openings near the top (where heat and moisture rise), ideally on multiple sides, with hardware cloth to keep predators out.
2. Nesting BoxesOne nesting box for every 3–4 hens. Standard size is 12"×12"×12". Fill them with clean nesting material (straw or pine shavings). Place them lower than the roost to discourage chickens from sleeping (and pooping) in them.
3. Roosts (Perches)Chickens sleep on elevated perches. Provide at least 8–12 inches of roost space per bird. Wooden dowels or 2×4 boards laid flat (wide side up) work well. Place roosts higher than the nesting boxes.
4. Easy-Clean FlooringA droppings board under the roost catches the bulk of manure and makes cleaning much easier. The floor itself can be wood, concrete, or dirt — just ensure it's protected from moisture and predators.
5. Predator-Proof ConstructionThis is so important it deserves its own section — see below.
6. Secure LatchesRaccoons are shockingly dexterous. Use locking carabiner clips or padlock-style latches on all doors. A simple barrel bolt isn't enough.
Predator losses are heartbreaking and completely preventable with the right setup. Common chicken predators include:
You have several options, each with trade-offs:
Local farm supply stores (TSC, Rural King, etc.)Before your chicks arrive, have the brooder ready. A brooder is simply a warm, safe enclosure for baby chicks during their first 6–8 weeks of life, when they can't yet regulate their body temperature.
Brooder basics:Watch your chicks to gauge temperature. If they're huddled under the heat source, they're cold. If they're spreading far away from it or panting, they're too hot. Happy chicks spread out and explore.
Recommended product: chick radiant heat plate Recommended product: chick starter feeder and waterer kitFeed day-old chicks chick starter — a finely ground feed with 18–20% protein, formulated for their needs.
If your chicks are vaccinated for coccidiosis, use unmedicated starter. If they're NOT vaccinated, use medicated starter (which contains Amprolium, a preventive against coccidiosis).
Recommended product: chick starter feed (medicated or unmedicated depending on vaccination status)In the first week, some chicks develop "pasty butt" — dried feces stuck to their vent (the opening where waste exits). This can be fatal if the vent becomes blocked.
Check vents daily in the first week. If you see buildup, gently clean it off with a warm, wet cloth or cotton ball. Be gentle — the skin is tender. Don't pull dried droppings off; soften first.
Pasty butt is most common in shipped chicks and can be caused by temperature stress or poor nutrition.
The first week with baby chicks is exciting — and a little nerve-wracking. Chicks are delicate, and this is when losses are most likely. But with the right setup and close attention, you'll get almost all of them through successfully.
1. Open the box in a warm room immediately.
2. Check for any dead chicks (common with shipping — document and contact hatchery).
3. Place chicks gently in the prepared brooder.
4. Dip each chick's beak gently into the waterer so they learn where water is.
5. Watch them for 30 minutes to ensure they're warming up and moving around.
For store-bought or local chicks:Skip the checking process — just transfer them directly to the brooder and give them time to settle.
Every day for the first week, you should:
The more you handle your chicks early, the tamer your adult hens will be. This matters — a hen that tolerates being picked up is much easier to examine for health issues.
Spend 10–15 minutes per day picking up chicks gently, letting them sit on your hand, and talking softly to them. Kids especially love this part. Just always wash hands before and after.
At 6–8 weeks, when chicks are fully feathered and nighttime temperatures are above 50°F, they can move to the coop. Transition gradually:
1. Start by letting them explore the coop during the day with the heat lamp available if needed.
2. After a few days, remove the heat lamp entirely during warm days.
3. Move them fully to the coop and monitor for the first few nights.
If you're integrating young birds with older birds, see Chapter 8 for tips on avoiding conflict.
Chickens thrive on routine. They're creatures of habit — they'll start expecting your arrival at consistent times, which actually makes it easier for you to spot when something is off.
A solid daily routine also makes sure nothing slips through the cracks. Skipping an evening coop close even once can result in devastating predator losses.
1. Open the coop. If you have an automatic door opener, this may already be done — but still do a quick visual check.
2. Collect eggs. Check nesting boxes. In hot weather or with broody hens, collect eggs promptly.
3. Check water. Dump and refill if needed. In summer, water gets warm and contaminated quickly.
4. Check feed. Top off feeders.
5. Quick visual health check. Scan the flock — is everyone moving normally? Any birds hunched or off to the side?
1. Ensure all birds are in the coop. Count them.
2. Close and latch the coop door securely. This is the most important step. Predators are most active at night.
3. Quick check of the run for any signs of digging or attempted entry.
Once a week (or more in hot, humid weather):
A simple notebook or spreadsheet goes a long way. Track:
You'll be surprised how useful this becomes when troubleshooting an egg-laying slump or spotting a health trend.
It happens constantly. You get 6 chicks, fall in love, and before you know it you have 20 birds and a coop situation that's completely out of control.
Start with 3–4 hens. Get comfortable. Then decide if you want to grow.
The coop labeled "for 8 chickens" actually fits about 3–4 comfortably. Overcrowding leads to:
Always go bigger than you think you need.
This gets chickens killed. Chicken wire is not predator-proof. A raccoon can tear through it with its hands in seconds. Use 1/2" hardware cloth everywhere.
Chicken manure produces ammonia. If your coop doesn't vent fresh air, that ammonia builds up and causes respiratory illness. If you can smell it when you open the door, it's already too high.
Make sure your coop has ventilation near the top — ideally on multiple sides, covered with hardware cloth.
This is the single most common cause of tragic predator losses. One missed evening close and a family of raccoons can wipe out your entire flock overnight.
Solutions:
Chickens are territorial. Adding new birds to an existing flock without proper introduction causes serious pecking, stress, and sometimes death.
The right way to introduce new birds:1. Quarantine new birds for 2–4 weeks before any contact with your flock.
2. Allow visual contact through a wire partition for another week.
3. Introduce during the day with plenty of space and distractions.
4. Monitor closely for the first week.
Never just throw new birds in with the existing flock.
Finding a vet who sees chickens is harder than you think — most small animal vets don't. When you have a sick bird and you're panicking, it's not the time to start searching.
Find a local poultry vet (or at least a large animal vet who will see chickens) before you need one. Ask at a local farm supply store for recommendations.
Lots of kitchen scraps are great treats for chickens. But some foods are genuinely harmful:
Never feed:Also never feed medicated chick starter to laying hens — the medication isn't appropriate for adults.
Chickens can go longer without food than without water. In summer, they can develop heat stress within hours of losing access to fresh water.
Check water twice daily in hot weather. Use large waterers that hold at least a gallon per 4 birds. In winter, prevent freezing with a heated waterer base.
Recommended product: heated waterer base (for winter) Recommended product: large gravity-fill chicken watererYou'll probably lose a chick. You might lose a hen to illness or a predator. Something will go wrong, and it will feel terrible.
This is normal. It happens to every chicken keeper. The birds that survive will be healthy and cared for, and most beginners who stick it out for a year find they can't imagine their backyard without chickens.
If you started your flock in spring, by your first winter your hens are around 8–10 months old. If you didn't add supplemental lighting, production will have slowed or stopped. This is normal and healthy.
Use this quieter season productively:
If production has stopped, don't panic. Your hens are resting and will come roaring back in spring.
As days lengthen past 12 hours, production returns — often dramatically. Hens that laid nothing for months may suddenly start laying every single day.
Spring is also when you can:
Watch for the first signs of broodiness as temperatures warm. A broody hen (one who wants to sit on eggs and hatch them) will camp in the nesting box all day and may be difficult to move.
This is your reward season. Long days, warm weather, abundant natural forage if you're free-ranging — production is at its annual peak.
A few things to watch:
Hot weather is harder on laying hens than cold weather. Production may dip in July–August heat.
Management tips:
Watch for egg binding in very hot weather — heat stress can affect the reproductive tract.
As days shorten below 12 hours, your hens sense the coming change. You may notice:
This is the time to:
For most backyard keepers without supplemental lighting, November–December means minimal to no eggs. Your hens are regrowing feathers, resting, and restoring their bodies after a season of production.
Embrace the rest period:
The pecking order is the social hierarchy that every flock of chickens establishes. There is a dominant hen at the top, lower-ranking birds in the middle, and at least one bird at the bottom.
This hierarchy determines:
It sounds brutal, but a stable pecking order actually reduces conflict. When every bird knows their place, there's less fighting than in a constantly shifting hierarchy.
Normal dominance behaviors include:
These are all normal and don't require intervention. What you're watching for is escalation beyond normal hierarchy maintenance.
Problem pecking goes beyond hierarchy management:
Causes of excessive pecking:
Solutions:
Adding new birds disrupts the established pecking order and requires careful management.
The Gold Standard Process:1. Quarantine: Keep new birds completely separated (different air space) for 2–4 weeks. Watch for any signs of illness.
2. Visual introduction: After quarantine, place new birds where existing flock can see them but not touch them — a wire partition works well. Do this for at least a week.
3. Supervised free-ranging: Let both groups free-range together in a large space while you watch. This is often less contentious than introduction in a confined space.
4. Coop introduction: Move new birds into the coop at night after existing birds have settled. In the morning, the new birds will be "already there" and the shock factor is reduced.
5. Monitor for a week: There will be some chasing and drama. Provide multiple feeding and watering stations so subordinate birds can always access food and water.
Never introduce a single bird to an existing flock — always introduce at least 2–3 new birds together so the lower-ranking birds have companions.
If you've read this far, you're already ahead of most people who start this journey. You know what to expect, you've thought through the setup, and you know the common pitfalls.
The best advice we can give you for that first year: observe your birds. Spend time with them. Learn what "normal" looks like for your flock, so you'll recognize when something's off. The more time you invest early, the more confident and capable you'll become.
Chickens are one of those things that sounds complicated in theory and becomes surprisingly natural in practice. Within a few weeks of your first morning egg collection, you'll wonder why you waited so long.
Welcome to the flock.
The following product categories are what we consider essential for new chicken keepers. Check our website at raising-chickens.org for current recommendations and reviews.
Brooder & Chick Setup: